Long road to Massacre.

We left Burlington on the by now very familiar Highway 385. South to Cheyenne Wells where we found another closed museum. The landscape varied from intensive arable, through beef farms where the cattle were kept in small compounds each with a mound in the middle, to almost desert like wilderness, sandy soil with sage brush. We passed signs for Beecher Island but no mention of the battlefield shown on the map. The road was straight and hardly undulated, but busy with trucks. We eventually came to Sandy Creek, the scene of one of Americas most inglorious incidents. Following a period of horsestealing and raids by hostile Indians, culminating in the murder of a family, a regiment of local volunteers was raised with the single intention of wreaking revenge. The rabble of farmers, drunks and old veterans rode out to Fort Lyon where they learnt of an Indian Camp at Sandy Creek. After a heated debate among the officers the soldiers, almost a thousand strong attacked the camp, apparently ignoring the US Flag under which Chief Black Kettle, who had made peace with the Whiteman, was told he would be safe. A massacre ensued in which 200 natives died, the majority women and children. The atrocity was compounded when the bodies were subsequently mutilated. The subsequent Indian wars were a direct result. In defence of the US Govt they held Courts of Enquiry and the Sand Creek massacre was exposed for the disaster it was. There was very little to see at the site which is not surprisingly sacred ground to the native American. However, the visit was made more than worth while by our conversation with one of the Rangers who gave us an in depth insight into the back ground and events of the massacre. His was an unbiased account and the twists and turns of the Indian policy set in the back ground of the Civil War, debates over statehood and the arguments about abolitionism. Characters involved included a Methodist preacher (Chivington) who was anti slavery but publicly stated that the only good Indian was a dead one. An Army Colonel removed for being sympathetic to the Indians and calling them together for Peace talks. A lieutenant who marched his troop around the massacre site but didnt shoot a single shot and was shot dead after giving evidence. Black Kettle miraculously survived Sand Creek only to die under very similar circumstances when attacked by troops led by CUSTER.
We resumed our journey over the semi desert landscape to Limon where we had lunch at a Wendys staffed by numerous staff not one of whom was seemingly aged under seventy! We then took the Interstate into Denver and visited what looks like a very interesting Transport Museum which no one was surprised to find closed. Rush hour in Denver is like rush hour the world over.

Colorado Bound

Left Scotts Bluff in glorious sunshine once again this morning having spent a night listening to what seems like endless trains going through. This is the busiest area we have been through for freight trains but then each town has silos or sugar making facilities so a busy area. Although in between towns there are miles upon miles of empty land with the odd cow here and there. Some roads are endlessly straight and seem to go on forever - so much so that a corner makes you wonder how the car will go around them.

We had intended to stop at a couple of trail type museums but being Sunday a couple were shut so we drove on. We finally stopped at Wray where there was very little but it had a cafe and a row of shops so we had a snack there. Most of these towns seem to have a lot of houses but you never see anyone walking in and out of shops in the Main Street, they are like ghost towns and you wonder where everyone is. We drove on to our intended destination, Burlington, Colorado. This had a marvellous Old Town Museum where we visited lots of preserved buildings showing you the telegraph depot, blacksmith, courthouse, jailhouse and a beautiful old house with pictures of the owners. There was a lovely lady playing the piano as we returned to the little cafe for the best milkshake we have ever had. Strawberry with real strawberries, cream, ice cream - a real meal in itself. Not forgetting the chance to buy Christmas decorations - this seems to be an all year round thing and the decorations are superb but transporting them back could be a bit of a nightmare.

We were told the best place to travel onto after this would be a suburb of Denver and take a trip along the Rockies before we fly on to Virginia. Apparently it is now cooler in Virginia so everything has turned around and we are hotter than them.

For this evening we ate across the road at a steakhouse which was very nice and apparently one of the two restaurants to be found open on a Sunday evening (the other being a Chinese). On to Denver tomorrow.

A mammoth journey

After oversleeping we left Spearfish on a scenic byway up Spearfish Canyon. The road followed a creek up a steep sided gorge and passed Bridal Falls. The road climbed steadily with attractive houses either side. The landscape changed gradually to less steep valley sides covered with trees and rock outcrops. There were many indications of industrial activity, the rich mineral contents of the Black Hills having caused the Whiteman to renege on treaties recognising the area as sacred to many native american tribes. Another triumph for Custer whose expedition made the discovery of gold. Having reached Newcastle we headed back into the Black Hills and Custer National Park. Like most National Parks this consisted of pine woodlands and wildlife seemed absent. We stopped for lunch at Blue Bell Lodge, a large modern log cabin with walls decorated with deer heads. Buffalo was on the menu. This was a portent as when we resumed our journey we first saw large numbers of groundhogs, then deer, then Buffalo. The landscape began to change again, the rough grasslands giving way to large expanses of hay, then cattle land. We then dropped out of the hills to Hotsprings. A delightful little spa town with stone or brick built Victorian style buildings. On the outskirts of Hotsprings is an extraordinary archaeological site discovered by a bulldozer driver. A limestone cave had collapsed millions of years ago creating a sink hole which a spring filled with warm water which caused verdant vegetation which attracted a wide variety of animals. Most common were mammoths, Columbian and Woolly some of whom were unable to climb out of the steep slides and eventually succumbed at the rate of one or two every seven years over about seven hundred years. They have uncovered 116 to date along with Llamas, Camels, American Lions, Shortfaced bears all preserved as skeletons. The site belongs to the community and is housed in a purpose built hall. We continued our journey on another by road heading south through the Oglala Grasslands project. Long straight stretches undulating over the least populated landscape imaginable. Much of the route followed a single track railroad - BNSF? which was the busiest line we had seen so far, three long freight trains within a short time. It was a long tedious slog down to Scottsbluff with the added tension of being low on gas, there being no settlements and buildings let alone filling stations. We arrived at Scottsbluff with the car on vapour only to find a dearth of gas stations. Scottsbluff is one of those sprawling characterless towns made less attractive by an all pervading stench, presumably from some industrial process.

Riding the Chuff Chuff

Today we decided that we'd go and change the paint on the car back to red at the car wash after miles of roadworks to start off with before heading off to meet the presidents in the black hills.
Mt. Rushmore was an impressive site to see carved deep into the rocks. We looked through the museum to see just how difficult it was just to find a way of getting up there. Borglum, the artist had to design a swing like chair just to get the workmen up there. Turns out that Jefferson's head was originally meant to be to the left of Washington but went wrong so they blew it up and started again which is why he's sort of peeking over their shoulders.
Borglum also made other sculptures before and made a confederate version years before which was of course blown off and he became a fugitive for a while before being pardoned presumably in return for creating mount Rushmore. Sadly he died part through which is why they don't have hands or suits like his original model and his son just cleaned it up as was after.
So after seeing it dad got his way and we left, not really to his taste.
We had an appointment with the Hill City to Keystone railroad along with many other people and screaming children to go with them. The ride was nice through the black hills looking at the deer as we went past and the kamikaze wild turkeys running in front of the train confused.
The deer just stared back at us like they were confused why we were staring at them.
We took time in the trip to look at the houses up for sale on the route which would suite us well, as in they were solitary so we couldn't annoy the neighbours and they had a "chuff chuff" going through their back garden.
The automatic tour guide talked us nicely through the route before the attendant corrected its mistakes and gave us more of an insight into the area. Such as the Glassblowers who took it in turns to wave at the train as it went past and the various wildlife on the ride.
The way back to Hill city found us waving at the same people six times as they chased past us in the car, got out and waved at everyone on the train before moving on again.
We escaped at hill city before a large tour group boarded and took control, kicking other tourists to the front coaches.
So we hit the road again, slightly faster then the 10mph train ride and headed of to Deadwood, which appeared to have a fitting name. So we moved on, got lost and went back to dead wood. This time we found our way back out and headed back to the motel at Spearfish for what i thought was a well deserved rest despite not having to do any work, but this train riding and photography is hard work!

Welcome to the Battle of the Little Big Horn

Left Cody this morning, earlier than expected as the previous occupants had set the alarm clock to an hour earlier! On the drive we drove over a previous roadkill skunk and the car smelt awful for about half an hour - note to self: avoid dead skunk at all cost. Smell dissipated - we drove on towards Billings in Montana and then on to the site of Custer's Last Stand at the Battle of Little Big Horn. Another National Park. That's when we met the people we had met on the plane and also in Cheyenne - how could it be that we could be in the same 2 places at the exact same time in such a big country, especially as they are doing the tour the other way around.

We went on to stroll around the park, tracing the path the cavalry and indians had taken. I understand that the indians had better guns than the cavalry and that Custer, who was questionable in his decisions, also had decided not to bring the Gatling guns. He had also made the decision to use 200 men against thousands of indians - big mistake. Then not helped by the fact that Benteen, another commander, hated Custer and decided not to go to his aid.

Nice to see memorials to the indian chiefs and braves too. We then drove out across the ridges and followed another trail whereupon we were harrassed by a bee followed by Steph coming across a snake, sunbathing. Picture small English woman shrieking and hopping about and you have just about got the picture. We then drove on towards Spearfish which was about a 3 hour journey. Came across the famous roadworks and had to wait 10 minutes for a pilot car to take us through. The woman guiding the traffic said her 14 year old son had just finished driver's ed and could now go out with a parent. But all her children have been driving for years on their ranch anyway - it's a whole different world out here.

We passed loads of deer on the way and this included the two sat in someone's front garden on the way back from the restaurant. They are very pretty but just as stupid when it comes to crossing roads as they are back home. Collected quite a bug collection on the windscreen now so I don't think Alamo would recognise the car at the moment when you combine the layer of mud up to the windows as well.

Hoping to see Mount Rushmore and also Devil's Tower (remember Close Encounters of the Third Kind) tomorrow.

Heading for Buffalo Bill's territory

The intention was to leave early to try and spot more wildlife, the morning dawned with an almost cloudless sky. We hit the road at 0830hrs and left Jackson in glorious sunshine. We left the highway and entered Grand Teton National Park on the South Jenny Lake Road. The early signs were good as we soon saw a group of deer and a large buzzard like bird. Elk and moose were notable by their absence as were grizzly or brown bears. Mostly the countryside consisted of untidy woodland and we had the feeling that there were thousands of critters sniggering as they hid behind logs and boulders. Jackson Lake was unbelievably huge with the reflections of the surrounding mountains only disturbed by the odd very ordinary looking water foul. Yellowstone Park seemed very different in bright sunshine from our first gloom lit visit. The Autumnal hues of the turning trees positively glowed. We turned East near West Thumb where we stopped to see the hot water springs, some bubbling out of seemingly bottomless holes at 160 degrees. One was spewing boiling water like an ornamental fountain. Near Natural Bridge we happened upon a small herd (30 -40) Bison spread either side of the road. They treated us with the disdain we deserved and demonstrated a remarkable lack of animation. The most active one was a huge bull which crossed the road at funereal pace as if perfectly aware that it was causing inconvenience and we couldn't do anything about it. Strangely one of the attendant vehicles was an ambulance as if the crew were waiting for someone to get gored. Judging by the demeanour of the languid creatures they would have a long wait. Eventually Steph spotted a solitary Pelican at Sylvan Lake looking slightly bemused as if it had just emerged from the rest rooms to find the rest of its tour party had already left to travel south. I think it was a Roosevelt who described the journey from Cody to Yellowstone as the best 50 miles of scenery in the United States and while I don't fully agree, the landscape was definitely spectacular, even in reverse. We had lunch at Pahaska Tepee which was connected with Buffalo Bills tourist organisation. The road then dropped down beside an enormous gorge with strange shaped rock formations emerging at Buffalo Bills Reservoir. The road then passed through two impressive tunnels before crossing the Shoshone River and arriving at Cody, the town which Buffalo Bill layed out for his Yellowstone tourist industry. The original site of the town is now occupied by a museum containing many original historic log cabins removed from all over Wyoming and Montana. There was a saloon with bullet holes in the doors, believed to have been frequented by the Hole in the Wall gang, another cabin believed to have given Butch and Sundance refuge. Another cabin had been built for a native Indian called Curley who as a scout for Custer was one of the only survivors of the Little Bighorn Battle. The museum also held a hundred old wagons of all descriptions including a remarkably well preserved Hearse. The whole had the aspect of a ghost town, one of the ghosts would undoubtedly be John (Jeremiah) Garrison, Liver eating JOHNSON! His regular camping site was at the base of some cliffs within sight of the museum and whose grave had been relocated to within the grounds. We continued on into Cody itself where we visited Codys Historic site, an enormous modern museum with areas devoted to Cody and his wild west show, natural history, Native American culture and the largest collection of firearms in the US. The day was completed appropriately by Dinner in the Hotel built by Bill Cody and named for his daughter Irma.

Dude, where's my Paddle

A step on the wild side today took us Down the Snake river. So we started off the day with a breakfast fitting of such an event. Eventually finishing we headed on over to Dave Hansen's log Cabin and put on our Splash suits and Booties ready for a boat trip down the river.
We had a short drive with 2 newly weds on their honeymoon discussing the best areas of America and the lack of animals we had noticed in the National Parks before offloading at the bank of the river.
The raft was slid in and we boarded, gracefully as ever. We made the wise choice and put Dad on the front to block some of the splash. After being lead through the basics we headed on down the river through beautiful scenery looking at the Osprey nests on the Power lines and Ferry mountains in the distance through large gorges. Oh, and a few rapids! We found ourselves on the whitewater bouncing around across the river.
We got to start off with the grade 2 Wake up rapids, through the rope rapids and on, wetter and wetter, albeit not as wet as dad got. We hit hidden rapids and splashed downwards into the Gaping holes of the river, through Whirlpools which can suck someone down with a Lifejacket for over 30 seconds at a time or flip a small boat.
Our boat just kept going as we headed on round the "blind bend" which held the view of "the Big Kahuna" beyond its rocks. The Grade 4 Rapid sent the boat downward into a massive hole sending the Guy with us into the lap of Dad which gave both people an uneasy moment before laughter ensued. Not sure if its better to fall into dad's lap or off the boat.
Our boat headed on into the deep water, which reached 70 feet down the entrance being an underwater water fall where the rocks dropped away with our boat falling down it. This sucked down air and let it out in thousands of bubbles nicknaming the area Champagne and they fizzed upwards onto the surface of the river.
Heading through more and more rapids we managed to beat the averages and not fall out before reaching dry land and heading off again after the awesome white water trip.
After the excitement we drove off in Search of the cable car and moose. The cable car took us up, past deer and Frisbee golf to an amazing panorama at the top of the would be Ski slopes. After realising just how cold it was and with fear of missing the last car we quickly headed back down again and went off down Moose Wilson road. We kept our eyes peeled the whole time, seeing tracks in the grass but no moose to be seen anywhere.
We were forced to give up and head back for another Steakhouse meal.

A faithful dribble

Today we took the trip up from Lander to Jackson on one of the more interesting roads of America. It took us up and around through Forests and into the hills.
We once again found ourselves driving across large plains with the snow topped mountains looming in the distance. Every so often we'd drive past deer having a get together or running along side us. More animals such as small country people ran across the road in front of us and waving wildly. I suppose British people passing is probably one of the more interesting happenings in the middle of nowhere.
Parts of the trip looked like somewhere in Switzerland as the roads curved round the hills. The temperature got colder and we turned on the heating as we travelled through a light dusting of snow.

As we went on we found the Americans ideas on road works to be more and more annoying. With roadworks stretching over 8 miles at a time leaving us with Dirt roads through the forests which left our car camouflaged. It didn't help us in our search for wildlife though.
These forests seemed to have an absence of any creatures even as we travelled into the National parks of the Grand Tetons and decided to divert up into the Yellowstone National park and off to see Old Faithful.
Travelling past Massive lakes, incredible gorges and cascades on our route. Also through more intolerable roadworks past areas of the Great Fire of 1988 which still leaves large areas stripped clean slowly regrowing.
Old Faithful, which is one of the must sees of Yellowstone with its massive geyser, was packed for what we thought would be a spectacular event. Needless to say, we were wrong. It Spurted up a bit for a while a short height before everyone gave up and wandered off to the Cafe. Another experience that didn't exactly live up to standards with several headless donkeys running around trying to work out which coffee belonged to who



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Trip to Lander

Travelled from Laramie to Lander today. Took the scenic route for part of it and it was beautiful. No houses for ages and then came across a town with a population of 100! One old battered police car on the kerbside. People seem to keep all their old cars too and just abandon them on different parts of their property.

We saw a lot of deer and a few hunters. Apparently where we are staying is the home of the "one shot antelope hunt". No rain today and mostly blue skies. Quad biking seems to be a large part of Sunday here and there are loads of trucks with 4 or 5 bikes on each.

Lander is a strange town, it looks like the old frontier towns with mercantile shops and an old Safeway. Hardly anyone around but it has 3 MacDonalds so they are increasing their waist size big time.

Had lunch at Mavericks - Hunters Welcome! It was very old American style with the football on TV so we got hooked on the match. The sheriff was in there having lunch with what seemed to be his wife. She had been out hunting for antelope with her father. Well she must have been around 55 so her father was obviously doing well. She said she had got her antelope - good for her - can't see that catching on back in Berkhamsted on a Sunday.

We went to see some falls today and started out well - actually on the right road. But then they were rebuilding the road so we had a go - met a few big trucks coming down with lumber on board and a deer stood in the road and stared at us in disbelief. Needless to say we never did find the falls - the Americans do not seem too great at signposting their places of interest. It starts off well then you have no idea where to go.

Dinner at the Oxbow Family Restaurant where you can get any beer you like as long as it's lite!

Off to Jackson tomorrow in the Grand Tetons!!

Outlaws of Laramie

After a disturbed night listening to the drunken idiots in the next room we forewent breakfast & hit the Highway (I25) but not before giving the overhung neighbours an early morning call! We travelled north out of Denver in heavy traffic at first. After a while we left the traffic and suburbs behind. We travelled through the High Plains of Colorado, the journey made interesting by nodding donkeys, long freight trains and massive sales areas for RVs. One of these must have covered several acres and contained hundreds of Winnebagos. All the journey our left flank was guarded by the brooding presence of the Rocky Mountains, some already shouldering the burden of early snow, or was it last winters? Gradually the terrain evolved from rolling plain to rolling uplands intersected by rugged bluffs and occasional outcrops of rock. We celebrated entry into Wyoming by having a hearty breakfast followed by a shopping interlude. After a short drive we entered Cheyenne and found the Depot of the Union Pacific Railroad which houses a small but very informative museum. Here we met some English tourists who had sat in front of us on the aeroplane, we found that they are doing very much the same itinerary as us, but in reverse.
From Cheyenne we found a scenic route to Laramie via Curt GOWDY national park. The road passed through rugged countryside, climbing high towards the Laramie Hills. Past strange outcrops of rock with boulders balanced on top. We emerged at a place called summit, the highest point on the old I30, the first ever transcontinental autoroute built before the Great War.
We then rejoined the I80 for a dramatic descent to Laramie. Here we visited the Historic State Prison site which has been faithfully restored and once held Butch CASSIDY for horse theft before he progressed to train robbery with the Hole in the Wall Gang. The site also houses several historic buildings and agricultural equipment. The sky threatened heavy rain and thunder but we luckily stayed dry. All in all a very pleasant day.

The flight of the Bearnes

Well we made it to the Airport pretty much unscathed despite being the target of a Lorry on the way onto the M25.
After the trek around the airport to find a suitable breakfast we finally reached the right plane and were on our way.
Although we had the expected uncomfortable seats and the same films being played for the whole of a 9 hour flight it wasn't too bad.
Once off the plane we had to get through the usual passport control where dad successfully crashed the machine by merely looking at it. We of course left him to it. We came back later, having collected the bags to find him still giving problems.
They eventually allowed him into the country.
So to Denver in our rented Korean people carrier, which you would pick to get around America.
Arriving at our hotel with help from Steve Irwin on our SatNav and settled in for the night, with more food of course. However we did get stuck next to the completely drunk people who sang through the night. I personally didn't wake up till Dad shouted through the wall at them, which was a bit startling to say the least.
Anyway we shall now travel onward to Cheyenne and Laramie.